Inspiration & Designing the Look

Popularly known as the first Black tailor (at age 27) to open a store on Savile Row and former creative director of Givenchy, Ozwald continues to be a force to be reckoned with. Born in Britain and of Ghanian descent, he has carved a niche in the fashion industry by setting a standard in the art of bespoke tailoring. His use of vibrant colors and refined fabrics with a twist of contemporary silhouettes offers a unique menswear luxury brand. He has donned celebrities such as Will Smith, Jamie Foxx and Mick Jagger in his well tailored designs. In 2000, he was awarded ‘Top Menswear Designer’ at the British Fashion Awards; awarded an OBE in 2006 by her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II for his contributions to the fashion industry, a Lifetime Award at the ARISE Fashion Week – Lagos in 2012 and many more.

Menswear designer Martine Rose has made some ground since her days designing T-shirts with a friend under the moniker LMNOP. Today, she’s killing at London Fashion Week and is gaining a following of cool guys interested in her bomber jackets, and mix of sportswear and tailoring. Not to mention, she has also collaborated with the likes of Timberland, CAT and Icon Brand. It’s no wonder Rose is always on the lists of British menswear designers to watch.

Agape Mdumulla is one half of the design duo behind the brand Agi & Sam, and easily one of the British menswear designers you should know. He earned his stripes working for Karl Lagerfeld and Alexander McQueen, the latter being where he eventually met co-designer Sam Cotton. But his foray into fashion wasn’t always so clear. As the story goes, Mdumulla wanted to be a pilot until he was sixteen. Needless to say, it looks like the stars aligned and everything worked out for the best. Since launching their label, he and Cotton have been praised for their snappy tailoring and prints-they even did an entire collection inspired by the Fresh Prince of Bel-Air. They’ve only shown collections for a few seasons, but if any of the previous ones are indications of what’s to come we’re in for a treat.

Born in Queens, Telfar Clemens’ designs toe the line between streetwear and high-fashion with a global perspective. That might’ve been gleaned from a childhood spent in Liberia. His clothing has a transformer-like quality, like the detachable fleece suit in his latest collection. There’s a hint of pragmatism mixed in with a little bit of street-savviness and workwear vibes. Indigo jeans are reinterpreted with two-toned fleece, hoodies look less athletic and more like body armor. While there’s a bit of whimsy, there’s also a cool guy vibe to everything, as Clemens’ upbringing and exposure to various subcultures while moonlighting as a DJ brought him into contact with many different styles: all which provide their own influence on Clemens’ approach to clothing design. He also has his diffusion line, Under.T, which offers re-interpreted basics like sweats and tees.

With his rude boy roots and decidedly English demeanor, Marc Hare is one cool dude. His long dreads and artfully unkempt beard contrast well with his rather dapper personal style. The footwear he makes are an equal juxtaposition of gritty edge and high-class sensibilities. He wasn’t always so dressed-up, Hare actually ran Low Pressure, London’s only surf shop, in 1992. A few years later, after consulting for sneaker brands and the likes of Levi’s and Dr. Martens, he got the itch to start a footwear line of his own. Launching his label in 2009, he originally made waves for eye-catching kicks like spectator shoes made out of stingrays and prices as exorbitant as his designs. He’s recently opened his first stand-alone store in London, and shows no signs of slowing down.

When Balmain announced it was appointing Olivier Rousteing as head designer some questioned whether he was right for the job. But, as you know, the move proved to be the right decision and not to mention also lucrative. To this day, celebrities can’t get enough of the brand, and rappers are still wearing the biker jeans like it’s their second skin. The African Frenchman Rousteing earned his stripes at Roberto Cavalli, where he worked for five years, and then designing Balmain’s women’s line. He may have stayed behind the scenes while former designer Christophe Decarnin led Balmain, but those days are long gone. All eyes are on Rousteing now.

In 1969, Trinidad-born Andrew Ramroop began a career as a tailor’s apprentice. He had tailored his first suit at seventeen, and his craftsmanship skills brought him success in London, where he had a stint with storied label Huntsman & Sons in the early 1970s.

In 1974, he found a position with Maurice Sedwell: the only shop that would hire a non-white tailor. Ramroop eventually bought the store in 1988, becoming the first person of color to own a shop on Savile Row. In 2008, the Master Tailor founded the Savile Row Academy to train the tailors of tomorrow, and was also handed an OBE honor from the Queen. Ramroop continues to train aspiring tailors at the SRA, while Maurice Sedwell still makes quality suits with him at the helm.